Europe on a shoestring - Day 6 (Venice) [September 29, 2005]

We arrived at Venezia St. Lucia. 7:36 AM. The guard/ ticket checker was a surly Italian who kept waking us up for small things – and early morning was at hand to drag away our pillows and blankets even though some of us were still sleeping. A fellow passenger, an Italian felt embarrassed and apologized on his behalf.

Need to leave backpacks in lockers or in left-luggage. This place is so dependent upon tourists and so ‘under-industried’ that instead of lockers they have manned stations – of course which cost a great deal more. Also our Raclette cheese and meat had got stale – and when Swiss cheese’s smell – they REALLY smell. So we had to make do with the typical croissant breakfast what we got on the train along with the bread – which was the only thing that survived. After making reservation to leave Venice in the evening, we picked up the simple guide map of Venice – the better detailed map was – you guessed it – to be paid for!

Outside the railway station

First views of Venice – just like any other bustling city outside of a railway station – except instead of streets you have waterways. It was a bit dull when we got out – with an overcast sky. All around you will also catch glimpses of instructions on ‘what to do when it floods’ and ramps kept on the side to provide elevated walkways when this occurs. Thankfully nothing like that was forecast during our visit – since the water itself didn’t look very clean. Everywhere you look – everyone is talking loudly – waving hands and all – just like one would see in an Italian cooking show…… aaah – let me continue on my travelogue and get back to those other things a bit later.
We then caught a vaporetto from St Lucia stop (Ferrovia). The church seems grand – but again – we had lots to see in a short day – so didn’t go inside. We got the tickets validated and after a small issue of standing in the wrong line were on our way to Piazza San Marco.

Piazza San Marco

Interesting fact is that there is only one Piazza in Venice – since others are all called ‘Campo’ – a sign of the importance of San Marco. We disembarked from the vaporetto at San Marco/ Vallaresso (ah forgot one thing – toilets fare is included in the vaparetto ticket – or you will be paying a Euro every-time you wish to go to answer nature's call). Basilica di San Marco – this is possibly one the most unique sights in the whole of Europe. The church is well a juxtaposition of Byzantine and Gothic architectures – as if the designers wanted to have a little bit of everything. The result is truly grotesque on the outside. Besides that all you see in the whole piazza are pigeons, tourists, more pigeons and yes … lots more tourists – whole busloads of them. Never ever seen so many tourists in an enclosed place.
But on closer examination – the church interiors – and the gilded insides highlighting the story of Joseph is very intricate and pretty. So too the horses of San Marco –and his Assyrian Lion – which for all accounts is around 2500 years old. We took a walk around the interior to enjoy the mosaics/ pavement. The Loggia dei Cavalli has the horses of San Marco. The sanctuary and the Pala d’Oro we were unable to see since they opened for public viewing only in the afternoon.

The Doge and St.Mark's Lion

Palazzo Ducale – ‘the Doge’s palace’ – has an interesting history – including that of the guy who would slide on a rope from the campanile to the palazzo to give the Doge’s wife a rose or something akin to it. What we figured out were that the pigeon’s were a Doge’s wife’s pets – seen as a way to reduce her boredom – now I view them as just a nuisance. Finally we walked around the Piazza (with multiple ‘orchestral groups’ playing outside restaurants who’s price may be equivalent to my US ticket’ and read a little bit about the the Campanile and the Torre dell’Orologio.
The next reads like how Sam gave it in his itinerary – cause literally you feel you are walking in circles – there is campo with a church (or multiple churches) – alley – bridge over canal – campo with a church. Really that’s how it looks to an outsider.

A chaotic canal... all in a day in Veneto

So the map is CRUTIAL. We then walked to Dorsoduro heading west towards Ponte d’Accademia. On the way we passed San Moise and the shoppingng area of the Calle Larga XXII Marzo, then turning left on Calle del dose and then walk to the waterfront. Finally we walked down the Campo Santo Stefano to the Ponte dell’Accademia.

See the bridge - its actually part of a church

I do not remember going in the church – but as Sam pointed out, it was the only church to be built over a canal in the whole of Veneto. Obviously by this time we were hungry – and had our ‘brunch pet pooja’ with Ice cream at Paolin near the church. The church has a beautiful roof and doorway. The interior is said to be very peaceful.
we moved on to the next island – the Dorsoduro, Crossing over towards the Accademia via the Ponte. Then through more of the alleyways we moved on to see a glimpse – which was in vain to watch the gondola construction at the Squero. By then it was high noon and it became the hunt for a reasonably priced restaurant for a meal – and trust me in Venice – its bloody difficult to get that. After rounding a school (next to the water obviously) with half the school kids standing outside and nonchalantly smoking (apparently its machismo – both for guys and coolio I presume – for the girls) twice we finally spotted a pizzeria (San Trovaso) mentioned in the guides and had a couple for lunch.

Santa Maria Salute - built after a plague

After tanking up it was more walking left at Spirito Santo, north past Guggenheim museum, Crossing the Rio della Fornace past San Gregorio we arrived at Santa Maria Salute – considered to be a beautiful church. – and yes the basilica – built in honor of the Virgin Mary after Venice had recovered from the plague is truly cool inside. We then continued to Punta della Dogana for the fantastic views of San Marco and rest of Venice.

A Targhetto - a poor man's gondola

Now finally we had to do something on the water – and since the gondolas are terribly overpriced – for our small pockets we did the next best thing and caught a Traghetto (small water taxi) to Santa Maria de Giglio – it did save us at least half an hour instead of having to find the nearest bridge. Getting off the traghetto we returned to Campo Santa Maria del Giglio.

Another of Anil's timeless classics

We then walked through a maze of narrow... really narrow alleyways (always fun to do it this way) we arrived at Scala del Bovolo.

The 'Snail Staircase'

This is one of the worlds first spiral staircases in masonry – the world Scala Bovolo literally translates to staircase of the snail – guess it appears kinda like that when you look at it.
We then began the loop towards the Rialto market - one of the oldest in Europe.

The bustling Rialto Marketplace

Oldest market in Europe – possibly very true – also very crowded. The church of San Giacomo di Rialto is the oldest in Venice. 11th century. I think I liked the peace of the church more than anything else in the crowded marketplace. The church’s clock is inaccurate. Opposite the church, spot the Gobbo di Rialto (hunchback). For all you know Marco Polo may have come here – since it is also the church for the seafarers.

San Giacomo di Rialto church

Moving along the opera house (world's first public opera house - 1636) we arrived at Campo San Polo. Campo San Polo is largest campo after the piazza. This was nice to just sit and see – kids running and playing – soccer is important, and roller blading comes close. Parents talking amongst each other with one eye on their kids. The older generation pretty much sitting – enjoying the warmth of the sun and engaged in what looked like gossip.

The Friari church

Frari is a massive Gothic church – and massive it really is… super duper huge. A bit drab on the outside – with a plain brick façade, but a glimpse inside revealed something else. I guess by now we had seen a good many churches – and it was slowing getting evening – so we moved back to the station – then thinking it would be boring to just sit at the station – we simply went back to the piazza and sat down with a bottle of wine and enjoyed the true Venetian life – bereft of tourists for awhile.

The real Venice.. simple, unadulterated fun

We then headed back to the station – spending the last hours sitting by the waterside – with our slow motion camera at work… 