Europe on a shoestring - Day 11 (Roma) [October 4, 2005]

This was to be our last day in Rome, and after one day spent in Ancient Rome and the other at Vatican city - this was supposed to be about everything within... sounds ambitious? it certainly was. I had duly suggested that it be dedicated to discover 'centro storico' or the heart of the city. We had certainly got a glimpse of it on our way back from the Vatican and it was time to do justice to the same.

Piazza Republica

We started the day going west toward the Piazza Republica and after a stand up breakfast of cappuccino and croissants (the food at the hostel was anyways totally unappealing) decided to pop in and see Santa Maria degli Angeli - whos call to fame I guess is that it was built on the site of the Bath's of Diocletian - the baths are actually visible from the sides. We then walked onwards towards the Spanish Steps with the under repair Trinita dei Monti church on top. When we reached there after a steady slow upward climb we were sorely disappointed. The Spanish Steps - were... well steps, and nothing too great about them in terms of architecture or art, although what graced the steps could definitely be defined as art forms :-). Since we not really interested in Keats or any of the long dead poets after glancing towards the Villa Medici in the foreground continued trudging towards Piazza del Popolo. In this great pedestrian circle we rested our now tired legs watching kids feed pigeons and do what I realized was a national pastime, or disease - smoke. It had slowly started to drizzle and we made our way into the Santa Maria del Popolo church which I must say had a wonderful collection of Renaissance art. I think there I finally fixated on my favorite Renaissance artist - that of Caravaggio whos paintings literally seem to leap out of the canvas to you. In addition the church does house the Chigi chapel whom as the guide seemed to illustrate were one of the biggest rivals to the power of the Medici's. The chapel though is pretty bare, which may have been wrought on by the Medici's themselves once their ascent to papal power was complete.
Walking south now we first came across the Mausoleo di Augusto - now a derelict closed chamber with a moat and walkway alongside it. Just went to show how the ascent of the church brought an abrupt end to all Roman adventures. Again as usual the hunger pangs started to creep in but we had to make one last halt via the Trevi fountain - at the Pantheon. This huge Roman edifice like all things Roman had been consecrated as a church, but just to look at the structure was impressive with the huge stone columns holding up a massive dome. I had selected Piazza de Campo dei Fiori for lunch hoping for a market on the likes of Florence but were disappointed by what we saw - all raw meat and vegetables, much smaller than Mercato Centrale. But then Samir came up with a winner - I do not remember the name but it was located off the main street in a little alley.

What a feast.... of freshly caught pesce

The owners spoke no English, but i had the best pesce (fish) caught fresh that day, and baked just right with a good sprinkling of olive oils and italian herbs and spice. It was good to sit out and watch time go by, eating Italian style. One thing to note - if you do not ask for the bill, it will NEVER come. The Italians believe in taking ones time to eat, and no one will force you out and you can continue at a slow unhurried pace. After a hearty meal - where could we go but continue our indulgences but for some dessert. And to help in the digestion we meandered through numerous alleyways to arrive at the Jewish Ghetto which was supposed to contain a famous Jewish Patisserie. But as luck would have it - apart from some old Jewish buildings, a Roman ruin alongside a synagogue we did not find what we were looking for. All our queries resulted was in a few rounds of the Jewish Ghetto and we finally gave up - not dessert time, but the search for the patisserie. Instead we followed our scents (ok not smell but a guidebook) to Trastavere, crossing an old crossing over the Tiber to the mainly residential, middle class area. There beside Santa Maria della Scala (Mary of the staircase - built where a woman had a vision of Mary near a staircase nonetheless) was an excellent gelato place, simple but fulfilling and we duly pigged in.
Now it was all the way back, with a stop at two churches Gesu and Sant Ignazio. For Samir and me it did hold a special significance since there were the center of the Jesuit order and both of us were products of a Jesuit education. The former had the embalmed body of St.Ignatius none the less - but a look into both the churches was truly wonderful. Both had excellent examples of Tromphe Loyal painting techniques and were beautifully adorned. I should say they came near the top of my list for my 'favorite churches in Rome'. By now it was getting dark and we decided to move back to the railway station (where we had put our bags in lockers for fear of having stuff taken away by Joshua and company). But to end the day - like all young Roman's do we stopped by the Spanish steps, 3 guys among a million other young boys and girls.

Back at the Spanish Steps

Dinner was a take out - but from Formula 1 none the less, one of the busiest pizzerias that I have seen, with an interest in - well F1 not less, and great pizzas at fantastic rock bottom prices... i really hope we had the luxury of sitting down and eating there.
Sitting back in Termini I looked back at Rome, a bustling busy city - maybe our accomodation may not have been all that pleasant but the attractions that Rome provided sure compensated for the same.