Pottering about Bonn, Germany

If I could choose a lifestyle today, then perhaps it would be that of a aimless wanderer, trudging across cities and continents, never too long in one place. At every rest stop a cheerful greeting, a few acquaintances made and an appreciation of what each place - large or small, has to offer.
Although I may not be there yet, as fate may have it my current occupation does allow extended sojourns to different lands where you do get a chance to live among locals and experience 'normal' life at a level a tourist could never hope of achieving. This, and the blog-posts to follow come from Germany and a few of its neighbors where I spent a lovely summer.
Let me start with the place I called home - Bonn. A small city, no - a town whose claim to fame was that it was selected to be a stop-gap capital for one of Europe's biggest economies until the Berlin wall came crashing down. I still remember the time not too long ago when there were two Germany's - the GDR and the FRG with Bonn as it's capital. Now coming from one of the worlds most populous country, the definition of capital indicated a huge sprawling metropolis spread over a vast area, a sign of power and might. So when I finally made it from Köln to Bonn - it certainly seemed as if I was moving from the city to the countryside rather than vice-versa.

So essentially, that is what Bonn is, a quiet sleepy university town on the banks of the Rhine. Now that the seat of the government has returned to Berlin it seems content returning to its position of relative insignificance from which it was thrust into the limelight over half a century ago. Now, there is a reason why Bonn was chosen to be the capital rather than the other larger cities in Germany such as Munich, Hamburg or Frankfurt. In talking to the locals I got the idea that all Germans always considered Berlin to be the true capital and the division as a temporary albeit painful time in their country's history. If, during this hiatus - the capital was assigned to one of the major cities then there was the fear that it would be far more difficult for Berlin to regain its position when unification would take place. Bonn, on the other hand with its mainly academic population centered around a university seemed to fit the bill. Additionally, it was within an hours of driving distance from its western neighbors - an important consideration during the cold war.

Beethoven staring down at us

Present day Bonn is marketed as the birthplace of Beethoven and the town trumpets it hometown hero with a music festival each year in September. You can go for Beethoven walks - touring everything from the house where he was born, the church where he began his formative years with the organ to the place where his mother is buried. All this is concentrated in the Allstadt or 'old town' area with its quaint cobblestone walk-ways and wide plazas which to this date serve as a functional market place catering to the locals every evening. In terms of professional employment it seems that there are two major players - Deustche Post and Deutsche Telekom. These organizations are so big that Telekom has two railway stops to itself and runs a train known as the Telekom Express. The departure of the government is gradually being filled in by the United Nations, making this town of ~300,000 people a culturally diverse and a city with its arms open to welcome well qualified people to drive its urban renewal.
In terms of architectural wonders themselves I guess I will have to admit that there isnt anything spectacular to see - apart from the cathedral in the heart of the city, the Kurfuerstliches Schloss (which is now part of the university) and a couple of forts such as the Godesburg Fortress just outside Bonn. However, the governments past and present patronage (some as restitution since Bonn lost a large number of jobs due to the shift in government) has also resulted in a Museum mile - with museum after museum catering to different tastes. I did visit a few, however favorites remain the Arithmeum - which showcases computing milestones (mechanical computers to silicon chips) over the ages and the Haus der Geschichte der Bundesrepublik Deutschland (Museum of the History of the Federal Republic of Germany). Mind you, to visit the latter you would be better off knowing German - all the placards next to exhibit are not bilingual! One sad but interesting detail are the photographs highlighting the fire-bombing during WWII. Many of Germany's cities and historic sites were silent victims of these raids, so its not uncommon to note that many of the important cities do not have too many intact architectural monuments compared to their European neighbors. Additionally the people had to bear severe hardships after the war as they came to grips with the widespread devastation. Such is the cruel nature of war. Hats off to the resilience of the German people who have been able to rebuild their nation to an economic and political power within a few decades.
But if there isnt much to do within Bonn - there is certainly plenty to do around it!
Cologne (Köln to the locals) is just a 20 minute drive with its vibrant atmosphere capped by the world famous Dom and the crisp Kolsch. If you are seeking nightlife - you certainly do not need to look further. Cologne competes with Berlin for the party capital of Germany. It is the city of the Carnival in February and Köln Lichther (Köln lights) with public participation topping a million people!

Köln Lichter - with 800,000 other people and the Dom in the background

It is a city which never seems to sleep - and the party is on every night..... and yes - I do mean every-night. Do not intend to say that Bonn does not have its interesting spots with Haus Bar among my favorites for its live music on Thursday nights.... but Köln is certainly in a different league altogether.... Thanks to Bernd, Hilmar, Wolfgang and not to forget Mirjam for introducing me to the fun side of life!
If partying is not your cup of cake - you could consider hiking; then the Drachenfels or Rolandsborgen could be just up your alley. The former - yes, with a dragon as its namesake is often regarded as the highest mountain in Holland - given the number of Dutch coming to see an elevated place from the flat lands of the Netherlands. A clear day rewards you with views reaching Köln - with the Dom in the distance. It is also the home to a rich industrialists nutty castle - never quite finished.... serves to remind you what too much money without a clue on how to spend it can do to a person. Rolandsborgen sits on the opposite side of the river and is on the rampart of an old Roman fort overlooking a monastery on an island. An easy walk to the top brings you to a cafeteria where you can indulge in cake and coffee and soak in the sunshine.

Rolandsborgan with Bernd

And if physical work is not your thing, you can always indulge in a favorite German passion - driving. The land of BMW, Mercedes and Porsche offers you one of the best driving experiences anywhere. You are rarely limited by your car, but more by your own ability. And I do not only mean the autobahn which curve all across Germany but also the back-country roads which weave and wind their way through picturesque villages.

'pitstop during a drive :-)'

Such a drive is to be experienced in the Aa valley with a gentle undulating landscape dotted with vineyards and small towns which seem to be right out of a Hans-Christian Anderson fairytale. If you were the technically inclined, you could also find the radio telescope at Effelsburg here, a monstrosity over 100m in diameter or the radar station with its huge dome built to track the Eastern bloc threats during the cold war.

The Effelsburg telescope

And if that isnt enough the 'Nürburgring' track can quell all your need for speed. Have some moolah to burn - then try getting Sabine Schmitz to drive you around the legendary Nordschleife in the BMW M5 Taxi or use the Zakspeed viper....

'The viper' whipping around the 'Ring'

All in all, whats not to love about Bonn.... not too big to be lost, not too small to be bored. I lived here for three months, and it kind of grew on me a bit. I was sorry to leave it, and certainly hope to return in the not to distant future to see what more it has in store for me.