A light - extinguished...

'Hey man, hows it going..... ready to party'... the words echo in my ears, never again to be spoken for the speaker is no more. Sometimes I do not quite understand life's quirks; what makes a person so full of life, hale & hearty, generous & kind just give it up on own volition all of a sudden. But rather than dwelling on why and how, I want to pen in a few thoughts and memories of the past, of good times together, of a good, simple and honest friend who passed away from this life into the next.
I got to know Bernd a few years ago; here I was - my first major assignment abroad in a country where I knew no one and did not even speak the language. We met by accident, he was in the room beside me and sauntered in with a cheerful smile and an invitation for coffee. If there was any presumption at the back of my mind about the German dour demeanor it all but vanished there. The summer raced along like a charm, with me living the mantra - work hard and play hard. Now, looking back I can reminiscence, if not for Bernd the latter thought would not have been lived up to its expectation.
Whether it was hiking, biking, touring or clubbing Bernd was ever eager; and with a BMW accompanied with a hunkering engine we thundered all over the countryside making merry on the weaving roads which let us push the machine to its maximum. And to document everything - there was his camera. Like all of us consultants, he too had traveled a fair bit and the camera was his prized possession from his travels. We functioned like a photographer and his light boy (yeah - I admit, 70% of the time I played the role of the 'assistant'). Not a problem with that, cause if anything I learned eons about photography, composition and well taking just darn good pictures from him. What endeared me to him was the patience and effort he took in nearly everything he did. Never a word of frustration and just like me - happy to look at the world through the bright unfettered eyes of a child.
Travels like always kept us apart, but we did keep in touch - when in Bonn he had a door open for me, a welcome retreat from the cold, impersonal touch of endless hotel stays. In the end, I was able to repay a bit of that back when we met one last time in Berlin. This time I was the host and he played visitor. Couldn't have seen a more content Bernd . By then he had gotten tired of traveling and now was happy with a non-consulting position; more importantly he was in love again and had even gone all the way to Peru to see his girlfriend's native country. We spent the day in Berlin - a bright sunny day aimlessly wandering and soaking up the sights of Germany's beautiful capital. Between nice food, and a few cups of coffee we basked in the sun and hung around as guys do. When I bid him adieu that evening, little did I know that it would be the last time our paths would cross.....
I miss the chap, for his hearty laugh, good nature and friendly disposition. If you may not have called him suave, for sure he was honest - a person who you could rely on and a great companion to boot. I can't imagine what could have happened in the space of a month to cause him to take such an extreme path, a path which ended a good life and left us all in sadness.
You were a great friend Bernd, thanks for all the great times we had together..... and I hope, I truly hope that wherever you are, you do find eternal rest and peace.

The Disneyland that is Dubai

A bird's eye view of Dubai

I looked down from the airplane to a sea of lights stretching to infinity. One look at the airport and it served as an initial introduction to Dubai - in plain and simple terms a land of superlatives. When people from the outside world discuss Dubai its difficult not to use terms like biggest, most expensive, one of a kind or best. Simply put - a land of no compromises!Drive around the night and the skyline is one huge construction site with monstrous crane after crane sitting atop skycrapers in different stages of completion, alongside massive public works projects including a metro rail system and a maze of flyovers. And when we talk buildings here we are not referring to Soviet style matchbox buildings - they are stunning visual structures in steel, glass and concrete, each one competing with the other for bragging rights! On top of that the city plans to grow at least 10% each year for the next decade. When we talk about developments - they are nothing short of well - obscene, ranging from the trio of 'Palm islands' to the 'World and Universe islands' and to the 'greater than Hong Kong' 80km stretch of property development from Dubai towards Abu Dhabi. From discussions with residents I have learnt that it is not uncommon for each apartment to change hands multiple times before completion with rates ranging from USD 500 - 800 per sq.ft; we are talking serious money here! If you drive on the main road from Dubai to Abu Dhabi one thing that you notice is that 98% of the billboard signs are from real-estate firms - Emaar, Tamweel, Rimraan, Nakheel .... all promising your dream house from lovely villa's costing over a million dollars to high-rise apartment complexes with panoramic views. The remaining 2% are distributed between banks who provided the loans .... and well - everything else on sale. The payment systems are flexible - so what you see is that properties are being flipped multiple times even before being ready for occupancy. So the market seems to be flooded with speculators - some reason seems strikingly similar to the situation back home in the USA. Additionally if you drive around at night, many of the buildings seem like ghost towns - devoid of occupants with the sole lights coming from the strobes that illuminate the glass and concrete structure. Is this about to collapse - only time will tell; but I suspect as long as petrodollars continue to flood this market there will be some gains to be made. Walking around the malls in Dubai you realize how diverse Dubai actually is. From what I was given to understand only 15% of Dubai's population is local - the rest are comprised of expatriates; this is not very hard to see. It would seem that half of the South Asian subcontinent (Pakistan, India, Bangladesh etc.) is here. A huge number would most certainly be engaged in the burgeoning construction industry, but there are a significant number in the services sector too. In here I see the dichotomy in society - the way the costs are escalating here what you end up having are two classes of society - the haves, and the have-not's who serve the former. First you have the locals - the Emiratis who seem to live life of sheer luxury. Interesting hobby was to spot them at the mall, with multiple wives and kids in tow along with the ubiquitous Philippino maid handling the bags and taking care of the kids. Following them down the food-chain are the expatriates who function as advisors and executives in the firms around here. I guess here they can live a lifestyle which cannot be accomodated in their native country - flitting between work and social events. Below that come in middle class drawn from several countries - with a huge presence from India, Pakistan, Lebanon and surrounding nations; drawn by no income tax and an aim to repatriate most of their earnings back home. They live in relatively modest accomodations, sometimes with multiple families living together - the rents being sky high to afford some privacy for themselves. But the worst of the lot is the one that comes right at the bottom - the labor class. They are here sweltering in the heat in the hope of being able to save up for their family back home. The ignorance and illeteracy makes them targets of exploitation from time to time. In this place your position and role in the pecking order is well defined - and you dare not risk trying to do so. I will have to admit that this was one of the few things I found quite difficult to digest, since I have been raised to treat each and every person with dignity irrespective of their race, creed or status - and this very discrimination seemed to be institutionalized and justified by many.One thing that does unite all the people irrespective of race, language, religon is the love for shopping.... well, I would be led to believe if you don't like shopping - then maybe, just maybe Dubai isn't quite the place for you. Go on any day, morning, evening or night and you will see all the malls packed with people. The situation becomes absolutely chaotic over the weekends with 'extended' hours to mid-night. Many people prefer to spend their weekend 'outings' well - going out on shopping trips. Don't get me wrong, if you like this activity - then you need not consider any place beyond Dubai to indulge yourself. You have every conceivable brand from all over the world converged to the multiple malls that dot the landscape. The malls themselves can be considered to be mini-cities with multiple themes (try Egypt, India, Iran, Turkish, Florence for starters) and possibly all that you would want ..... did anyone say ski... yup, that's also there.... along with opera singers and circuses all under the same roof. Mercifully for me there were a few other activities which like minded folks who shy away from the malls can undertake, two of which deserve special mention... cause I tried them out. One is quad-biking over the dunes... sans protective gear! Bloody dangerous you would think.... bloody fun I would say. Only recommendation is go during the cooler part of the day (decide what that is depending upon the time of the year) otherwise the sand well - wouldn't be too much fun. And the other is - scuba diving. Part of Dubai's attraction is that well, if it ain't there we will build it. So they may not have coral reefs at present, but they have sunk one tanker and are in the process of sinking an Airbus A330 with some added limestone for good measure to 'attract' the coral. Should be interesting hunting grounds for sure.... And if you are serious about this - consider the PADI dive center at the Jumeriah Beach Hotel for dives and for certification, if you are lucky you will get Elena to teach you. What you end up getting is a terrific lassie with a Russian humor, and a brilliant instructor. I stand as testiment to this - for now I have a diving license and have had a few thoroughly enjoyable experiences in the ocean..... and yet am a mediocre swimmer at best! oooh, that was so much fun!!!!Coming back to cultural aspects inspite of being an Islamic state I would have to agree with the majority that Dubai is the most liberal that exists. However there still are a few 'broad guidelines' which need to be lived by. For example - alcohol here is only available at the major hotels which makes it pretty darn expensive. On the flip side they allow 4 liters of alcohol per individual at the airport and pretty much everyone makes a trip to the Duty Free before heading out. That brings me to an interesting aspect of this state - that of state exerted 'moral authority' which I am not sure what to make out. For example if you are a Muslim you are not permitted to buy alcohol. Gambling is forbidden in the country. Rumors abound that when the Burg Al Arab hotel was built, initial plans called it to be positioned off the coast so that it could technically qualify as being outside an Islamic state and hence be permitted to conduct casino style operations. When there was a disinclination to consider as such, it the builders pointed out to the astronomical cost incurred during construction - rumored to be close to $1 billion. From heresay I was given to understand that at this argument a check was handed over which effectively silenced the issue. On the same breadth it must be said that several websites (and I don't mean only porn) are unavailable since they conflit with the 'moral and religous' ideals of the U.A.E. What puzzles me is that if this is the case how come you have so many women working in the 'service' industry here which doesn't seem to be terribly hidden away under the carpet? In someways I sensed a bit of hypocrisy.... but well, I could say the same for many other states - both in the western and eastern world.I arrived here at a time when most people who can afford it prefer to flee the country for cooler climes. Most days by 08:00 the temperature is well above 40C and on most occasions it is terribly humid. What interested me was the fact that from dawn to dusk the air seemed to be blanketed by smog, possibly caused due to the construction, mixed with sand and water. This was so bad that you could not discern even prominent landmarks such as the Burj Al Arab in the horizon. I wonder a bit what is the use to construct such high buildings when if you looked outside you couldn't see a thing; maybe this a something that changes during the cooler period of the year... maybe we will get an opportunity to experience the same.Now that I am leaving Dubai, I am left with conflicting thoughts about whether I would like to come back. Of course the fast paced lifestyle, and the availability of everything (for a price of course), along with the proximity to home is an attraction. On the otherhand the artificial nature of life that I experienced, the lack of the trees and mountains which I absolutely adore and the cooler climes that I enjoy have made me stop and think about it. If you ever decide to come and live in the Middle-east there this is the price that must be paid.... and I guess it all depends which of those you can live with, and those which you cannot do without.

The art of time-keeping :-)

Maniana Maniana .....One of the coolest things which I love about my job is the opportunity to travel and see different exotic destinations and interact with people of various cultures, races and religions. Of course, one of the key elements of enjoying the experience is to have a very open mind... and although for the most part it is great - well sometimes you feel like pulling your hair apart. This brings me to the topic of this missive - that of establishing a time frame to meet. When I grew up in India my folks made me follow a pretty regimental schedule but we used to always refer Indian Standard Time (IST) as Indian Stretchable Time. If you would ask someone to meet you would always get the reply 'sure.... we meet later'.... which said ... well - nothing. No wonder until the time India got onto the IT bandwagon and began aping the west - we were always stuck in a quagmire of expecting to do stuff at an 'unknown' future point in time. But if I thought that this was restricted to India.... well I was badly mistaken.In Latin America they have the saying 'maniana, maniana' when queried on when a particular job will be done. This literally translates to somewhere in the future. If you ever try to be more specific more than often you will get a wry smile in return. I was given to understand that this was such a problem in Peru that the government instructed the mayors of towns to install clocks in every village since it was totally ruining order required for businesses to operate and prosper..... In the Caribbean, especially due to its laid back attitude this takes gargantuan proportions. To be sure, it a gorgeous place to be - like no other. If you want to go there, just leave your watch behind and operate on your own internal clock. Unfortunately for me, I visited the place on work - which seemed to contradict the 'chilled - easy going attitude' that people were accustomed to. Interestingly enough, I did get to query one of the locals about this whole affair - wasn't it adversely affecting the 'efficiency' at which the country was operating at? All it needed was a bit of discipline to get things in shape. However - the answer I got was unexpected - and have to admit, thought-provoking. In the typical lazy style he smiled at me and replied, 'people come to the Caribbean to have a good time, to unwind, to relax and rejuvenate themselves. We encourage them to do so - and for that its best you operate 'a la naturale' rather than by clockwork. That's the best way to recover from the stresses of your '1st world existence'...... I have to admit, a very strong argument there ;-).In the middle East it takes more of the Arabic flavor and if you want to meet the next day you would most likely get the response.. 'tomorrow, Inshallah' - literally translated to 'tomorrow - God willing'!!! This was so apparent that in one case when a individual (who obviously had not been sensitized to the cultural aspects of the region) was given an appointment the next day he turned back and said - 'does tomorrow mean - tomorrow or "tomorrow Inshallah"' :-)In someways I think this concept is different from country to country... culture to culture. While states like Germany, Switzerland love the safety of regimental time-keeping to keep their systems running, on the other extreme you have the cultures like the Caribbean where a laisse-faire attitude seems to reign supreme. Maybe the business minded would prefer the clockwork time-schedule, but if you are up for it - there certainly is a bit of charm going to a country and operating in a totally different 'time environment'.... Happy Traveling!!!

From good to 'wurst'!

Well, if I were offered an ideal job it would be combining that of Ian Wright, Antony Bourdain and Russell Brice all in one. In that way I would be able to travel to all crazy destinations, eat local 'read as interesting' cuisine and climb all the high mountains while I am at it. It was no different in Germany and I totally dived into trying to sample all what I considered to be interesting food.

One food which seems to be staple wherever you are in Germany is the ubiquitous 'wurst' - there is Bratwurst, Currywurst and God alone knows how many different types of sausage found in the country. And when I talk about sausage it is not the wimpy kind you get in the US - these things are 'ginormous'; one is more that enough to fill you up. In a way you could call this fast food - German style.
A traditional meal seems to include bread and meat; vegetables seem to be skewed towards the simple potato. Just as they have over 50 different types of bread I have tasted and sampled over 50 different kinds of potato. Friend potato, baked potato, stewed potato, mashed potato - you name it and its part of the German cuisine.
And yes, the meat; mainly rind (beef) and schwein (pig) seem to be part of the staple diet. One of my common preferences was schnitzel - basically meat fried in batter with a mushroom sauce on top. But if I was to choose my favorite - then it would be Knödel. I have to thank Stephan and Wiebke for suggesting this when we were hiking in Austria. If you are tired and cold, then this is the food for you. Warm soup and dumpling is so good that you forget the calorie count associated with it.

Knödel

And as for dessert, well you have the cakes for sure, but what I loved was applestrudel umm mmmm mmm. Add an expresso and you are done.
However, no discussion about Germany would be complete without beer. They love beer, and consume copious amounts of it. And with such good refreshing quality, I certainly do not doubt them for it!. While Köln is famous for its Kölsch served in 0.2l glasses, Munich has its 'maas' served in a 1 liter mug! Drink it down with some radish along with pretzels and it all goes down smoothly. Beer is so common, it is definitely cheaper than water. (As an aside, water is typically drunk gassed - with fizz.) But beer is not the only good spirit floating around - some super wine is also available; and if you arrive at the right time you should try 'fede-wieser' - the new wine. I loved it! Add some jaegermiester or Kirschwasser to the mix and maybe it explains why the German's are so jovial in the evenings ;-).

Nothing better than with a chilled beer and some friends

Just as my German friends introduced me to their food, I too was determined to share a bit of my cuisine. Accordingly, we all got together one nice summer evening and cooked up a meal for all of them. It was a combined effort from all and the outcome was certainly very interesting. Side-effects did include a full stomach after a five course meal and a garlic breadth to kill all but the strongest vampire:-).

Bernd with his tandoori chicken

Breezing through Brussels

What does one do if you get up one early morning in Bonn, the sky is clear and the road is wide open ..... well you go on a long drive of course, the old girl needs a few high revvs and top speed on occasion to stretch her legs a bit. Obviously, you can go in a big circle and arrive exactly where you began; but on the other hand you can mix it up a bit and you have caught the traveling bug - you simply head out West like the pioneers of yore. That's exactly what my good friend Bernd and I did one morning and landed up in Brussels - the capital of Belgium.

First, lets get the name straight - although Brussels may be the English nomenclature, I certainly think that Bruxelles (thats what the French call it) sounds a tad bit more chic - what do you think?

The journey from Bonn to Brussels is unremarkable apart from the fact that on occasion when traveling at 200 kmph and feeling a bit pleased with yourself you are overtaken by a train zipping past you at perhaps 300 kmph; and oh yes the fact that you know that you have left Germany when the signs appear all in English and the speed limits force you to potter around at 120 kmph!
By the time we arrived it was still quite early in the morning with most of the places shuttered up forcing us to walk around a bit to orient ourselves. Walking around from one 'Rue' to the other we chanced upon the evangelical church of St Catherine which seemed to possibly be the only place open at that hour.

The church of St. Catherine

Although potentially a remarkable piece of construction in its day and still very functional it seemed to wallowing in a state of neglect and disrepair. However the time spent around the church (which is also the location of a fish market) gave an opportunity to read a bit about the history of Brussels - on how it is a pretty young country having been annexed throughout history by one large kingdom after the other.
We pottered around a bit through one tiny alley after another trying to find a nice spot to grab some breakfast, and with some assistance from a guidebook headed towards the Großmarkt which was in the heart of the city. On the way we passed through the glass canopied Galeries Royales Saint-Hubert which was the world's first shopping mall when it opened in 1847. It would be the equivalent of 5th Avenue in NYC or Mayfair in London - filled with boutiques showcasing the best in designer goods. I couldn't afford to shop, but well definitely stopped to look around and admire the architecture of this glass and wrought iron marvel.

Galeries Royales Saint-Hubert

Next was definitely a breakfast at one of the cafe's that lined the market. Very French indeed, just a basic croissant and coffee. I think that is one of the key to the French lithe figure - minimalistic food; just that they are excellent in the marketing department - so that same food becomes gourmet cuisine that costs a bomb!

Breakfast at Großmarkt

But now we had our fill and the city was starting to wake up it was time to explore our environs. First stop was the Grand Palace. If there was any place in Brussels which could be considered as ground zero this was it. Typical of all the big plazas that time this courtyard too had the Rathaus where city councilors would meet to discuss the affairs of the state. However what I did find a bit unique was the absence of any prominent religious structures; I was quite acquainted in finding a cathedral in and around the main plaza, but in this case it seemed to be absent. However the gilded Rathaus and the Grand Palace were no less in pomp and circumstance, adorned with ornate sculptures of the royalty and important citizens of the period. Another interesting observation was that some of the figures appeared to have been decapitated - perhaps the flesh and blood version had fallen out of favor with the powers who ruled....
But one thing was for sure, the merchant nobles who ruled this place were anything but poor; it was now becoming clearer why this small piece of territory had been hotly contested through the centuries. The wealth concentrated in this region from trading had attracted whoever had been in the hot-seat of European power during the time making this the proverbial 'golden goose'.

Grand Palace

Wandering through its maze of alley's brought us to past the magnificent bourse (I would not have expected anything less) to the Church of St. Nicholas (patron saint of traders) sitting askew in the corner of a street. One of the oldest churches in Brussels it is the resting place of the relics of the 'martyrs of Gorkhum' from the 16th century during the tribulations between the Catholics and Protestants in the region. Although being nearly destroyed several times over it still retains a air of it's proud and ancient past when it held sway over life in the city.

one of the martyr's of Gorkhum

Now it was on to one of the favorite tourist haunts - that of 'Manneken Pis'. For such a small statue with uncertain origins, it sure does demand a large audience. Well, if out of curiosity if not anything else we too did the customary trip to see this odd curio - and since he wasn't being 'dressed up' on that day..... well there is only that much one can be fascinated about a statue of a urinating toddler!

The famous 'Manneken Pis'

Now the stomach was rumbling a bit and it was high time to grab some good food. And in this sea faring state that meant a delicious meal of mussels with some fries. As a quick side note - French fries were invented in Belgium, and for sure the Belgians got it spot on, even till this date. The numerous outdoor cafe's and nice balmy weather made grabbing a nice cozy spot in one of the numerous bustling cobbled streets contributed to the ever so interesting sport of people watching while digging in through the mussels which had been prepared in wine.

a Bucket of Mussels and fries - washed down with some wine...

After a leisurely lunch and some coffee we finally coaxed ourselves to get out of our reverie and head back out to do some more exploring. Moving from the inner heart of the city we moved toward the other side where the royal palace was situated. But first we stopped to see the St. Michael and st. Gudula Cathedral which sat on higher ground and commanded quite a view of the city. The cathedral itself is one of the prettiest I have seen, both inside and out. The towering columns along with ample use of stained glass results in a cacophony of light all around the interiors. As for the exterior, beautiful as it is - on first glance it did remind me of Castle Grayskull from the 'He-man' series!

Cathedral of St. Michael and St. Gudula

By now it was close to 16:00 and we kept pace with our small itinerary, strolling along the palace gardens, the royal palace and the court. A bit of rain kept pace with us which prevented the luxury of trying some good photo shots; however on the positive side - played a role in getting us moving on. However, a visitor to Brussels cannot leave without one thing - and that is to pick up a box of chocolate; cause chocolate is to Brussels what high fashion is to Milan. You cannot say you have been there done that if you do not cater to this basic of all indulgences - and it does not get much better than Pierre Marcolini. Expensive... maybe so, but well - how many times does one visit Brussels!
We had one more stop before we headed home - and that was at the Atomium. Absolutely cool design - seemingly out of place amidst the old town feeling of Brussels - but interesting none the less.

Atomium

As we sped back, I tried to look back over the sights and spots that we had seen. Here was a place not too far from Bonn, yet so different in culture, architecture and tradition. It had been - quite an interesting experience; and thanks Bernd - I do owe you one for that!

Seduced in the Stubai

It was a nice, clear, warm starry Thursday night; and if you were in Bonn that pretty much meant that you would be at the Haus Bar. As usual I joined my good friend Stephan and we headed out there for some good company, live music and drinks. Today we were celebrating Stephan's completion of his studies and were joined by a few colleagues; always a case of more the merrier. The conversation as always centered around plans for the weekend; in that respect I think humankind is universal - we all live for our weekends!

There was Stephan, a broad Berliner with a ever present twinkle in his eye; Wiebke, a lovely lass from Gummersbach; Yelena, the cheerful girl from Uzbekistan - if there was something common between us it would be a love for the outdoors and a pinch of what I can only call 'explorer's insanity'. One of my hidden agenda's for coming to Germany was to do some hiking in the Alps, but soon after reaching Bonn I realized that although the Alps were in Germany it seemed that I was on the wrong side of the country for that kind of activity! However, one can always hope and I had never given up the desire to head to the hills.
I had broached the subject to others before but given the distance and other commitments it seemed like a lost case. But when asked what I wanted to do, half heartedly it again came out as - let's head to the hills. The only difference was the answer - 'hmmmm, why not; how about the following weekend'!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Not sure if it was the effect of the alcohol on sane reasoning or a shared passion - but yes; we were sure as hell going to the Alps.
Logistically it was quite simple. Stephan very gamely offered to drive the 750km (one way), Wiebke with her experience of the Alps would plan the trip, and Yelena and myself would provide the company. To round off the quartet, Stephan's girlfriend Candy would fly in from Berlin to Munich and join us. AWESOME!
The location Wiebke had chosen was in the Tirol region in Austria, home to the Stubai Alps. The Alps rise on both sides of the narrow Stubai valley culminating in the Stubaier Gletscher making it a veritable trekker's and skiers' paradise. It sure was a long drive but we finally did make it crossing into Austria via Innsbruck and headed to our destination.
After a nice simple pizza dinner downed with Rädler at a small bed&breakfast in Ranalt - basically beer with lemonade (very very refreshing) we called it a night - tomorrow was going to be a long day and I think we could do with some good sleep. Before hitting the sack, it was the customary excited call to my folks back in India about the planned trip. My poor mum, bless her soul, has had to deal with these type of calls all her life - probably heading to the church the next day to pray either for safe deliverance from any trip or more likely for some divine input of sanity to her offspring :-).

The start (from L-R) me, Wiebke, Yelena, Stephan and Candy

Next day after a hearty frühstückte (breakfast) we were ready to hit the road (~08:30). A short drive weaving in and around the curves brought us to the trail head. Spirits were as high as the sun , and amidst a background of the snow capped peaks we set off, picking our way through the trail cutting through the coniferous tree line. The incline was a steady one, albeit not steep and I took time to snap a few photographs as we ascended, both of our group and also of the ever changing scenery. I am not too sure as to why people climb, if you asked me there would be no clear straight shot answer. All I know is that somewhere deep down within me I realize a sense of contentment which no other activity can provide. I cannot and do not try to rationalize with this feeling, but its just like an addiction which I cannot go without for an extended period of time.

We had just cleared the tree-line at this point a made a short stop

Finally after around an hour and half we finally ascended beyond the tree-line and took a short break to take a quick snack and take in the views from a hilly outcropping which overlooked the valley. We now walked alongside an alpine rivulet which gushed and gurgled as it flowed down the hills to the valley. But this sound was dwarfed by a distant roar of a waterfall which emerged into view as we trudged into a valley hidden by the hills. The only company seemed to be fellow hikers...... and a bull which took a special liking to Stephan.

Stephan and 'friend'.... note the waterfall and the hill in the background - thats where we were headed

From this point in the valley our first destination was visible just to the right of the huge waterfall - Sulzenauhütte at 2196m. Well, given that we were at ~1850m it didn't seem like a huge total distance.... but then again 300m of vertical ascent rarely translates to a similar horizontal distance; and we diligently set about the circuitous route.
This would serve as a nice backdrop of the abilities and personalities of our team. In the lead was Yelena, lithe and sure-footed as a mountain goat, with a demeanor and disposition of a fun loving Russian. Alternating in the lead was Wiebke, who seemed to excel in such environs, her vivaciousness adding to her charm. Then came the rest of us led by Stephan, a very cool, composed German with a chilled out attitude followed by Candy. Candy was the very woman's woman - the type you see on the business woman's magazine, the elegant types who would be comfortable in a boardroom; add to that a very friendly disposition and you have a good idea of the type of person I am talking about. And finally there was me, what I lacked in ability I made up in enthusiasm and rounded up the group. So here we were - five quite different people brought together by a love for the outdoors.

Sulzenau hutte - our lunch halt

We managed to reach our first halt at around 12:30, the hütte perched on a pass with spectacular views of the Alps on both sides. It was also our pit-stop for lunch. And since we were in Austria, and I was starving it made for the perfect setting to experiment. On Wiebke's advice, I chose Knödel, essentially dumplings of ham and cheese in warm soup. Add a glass of beer to that on a warm afternoon - its a perfect recipe for a follow-on siesta. But we had ways to go, so slung on the backpacks and resumed.

If there would be one picture that illustrated our state of mind - this would be close to it

Now the landscape had now changed reflecting the rugged fauna which dominated the region. We were now walking in the shadow of Wilder Freiger (3418m) which was one of the dominant peaks in the region. What was very evident was the decline in the glaciated region over time. Fifty years ago, where we stood would be permanently snowbound, but now the glacier had receded to near the peaks themselves. The starkness of the landscape had a strange sense of beauty to it, and I couldn't help but occasionally stop and look back to take in the scene.

Alpine scrubland

We did take occasional stops, by a clear river to stretch our legs and another time by a perfectly still glacial lake formed from the glacier runoff. It was a clear warm day, the views were from a picture book and I was amidst friends - not sure if I would have even have wanted it any better.

what better backdrop than an Alpine glacial lake!

It was finally up to a 250m scramble up over a vantage point to begin our climb down to our night-stop. This would also be the highest point on our hike, after this it would be all the way down. We had an option, either take the winding path or just try a 40-50 degree incline over loose rock. Wiebke with her wisdom chose the former, the rest of us either with a false sense of bravado, or a naive underestimation of what that meant opted for the former. On hindsight, it was a stupid thing to do cause when you have a unwieldy backpack you are not the fastest or the most lithe creature around.

piece of cake - hold the cable and scramble!

But in the end we all made it using the fixed cable, and some pluck to clamber up and hoist ourselves next to a cross erected by travelers across this path in memoriam of some hapless folks who slipped and fell to their death. In a way the cross was a silent reminder - that Someone was possibly watching over us......

Alpha point - from now on it would be all the way down

Now clutching the cable we started making our way down. The cable was essential in places, and I wondered about the difficulty in making such a passage in bad weather - it sure would have been tricky given the exposed nature of the descent. In addition, I think I had twisted my knee a bit and began to fall back a bit, taking slow and deliberate steps to ease off on the injured limb. Stephan was kind enough to stop now and again to check on me to guide me through the more difficult sections. On occasion the pain was sharp and shooting, during the rest it resembled more of a dull numbing sort of pain. However, what could I do except focus on reaching the next stop! It is in these circumstances that I thank my stars for a passion to undertake this sport - cause the thrill and adrenaline rush to just be out there compensates for all the pain that one may have to endure.... sounds crazy - and I guess that's exactly what it is.

Nürnbergerhütte in the distance - our night halt

However it was a relief to reach our halt for the night Nürnbergerhütte (2280 m). This 92 year old place of refuge commands a superb panoramic view of the Stubai alps from its 'sun terrace' and offers basic food and lodging - exactly what a weary traveler would need. After checking in to our 16 bunk bed dorm room we savored our day's experience over a bottle of wine. It would be a quick dinner before we would head to bed. A sound sleep felt good, except that I felt so grimy I decided that the ideal way to do it would be to feel scrubbed and clean and decided to have a shower - a stupid idea. Consider the fact - the water had not been heated, and essentially was coming right from a glacier so it would be very possible that it was close to freezing. Needless to say it was the quickest bath of my life, accompanied with rigorous scrubbing or rattling of my own skeleton as my body was shocked as the icy water hit me. All I remember were three German's staring incredulously at me when I made my exit, and Wiebke's laughter ringing through the room as I dived into cover of my sleeping bag. Just to rub it in, heated water was available the next day with Stephan having the pleasure of a nice warm shower. Well - it certainly was an experience!

next morning - the hill in the background is what we had crossed the previous day

Next day after breakfast we began our descent into the valley below, wading our way through small herds of goat whose bleating echoed through the hills. Walking alongside a gushing stream on the way back to our car I reminisced on the trip; the beautiful vistas that I had seen, the camaraderie that we had shared and the simple, unspoilt joys that we had all experienced. The crisp mountain air, the crystal clear icy water from the glacier, the whistling of the bush as the wind whipped around .... for a time I had been in enchanted lands, truly seduced ... by the Stubaital.

After a hard days work what better way to relax then with some beer and good company

Who - or what is a German.....

'Different faces of a German'

This image may conjure up different pictures for different people. Some drawn from the incidents this past century, most I dare say admit comes from the media. What I experienced during my time there was quite different, contrary to my initial expectations.
As a colleague once succinctly put it - the typical German is like a coconut, cold and unfriendly on the outside but when you get to know him better you would always be welcome in his midst This is true in many instances. So although they may be a bit more formal that their southern neighbors but in no small way are they a boring people. German's love.... and I mean LOVE to have a good time. Think Ocktoberfest when you think about German attitude, and you wouldn't be too far from the truth. During my time there seemed to be festive events every other week - and at each event the whole place was packed; and it wasn't just the younger generation, but everyone from the young to the old seemed to want to come out and enjoy the festivities.
Given that fact - the average German is not a spendthrift but is quite cautious on where and on what he spends his money. When a house is built it is built out of solid brick and built to last a century. Although this results in prices which would break a wallet - the German considers everything in light of the time-period for which he will own his asset, and the joy it brings him. Therefore its is quite common for people to rent apartment's all their life until they have decided to live in a particular place - and then go in to buy a house. A direct result of this is a savings rate of close to 11% - quite a few percentage points higher than the US. This I suspect has some origins in the hardship the people have experienced over the last century which urges caution over reckless spending.
A personal attribute which I often came across was the relative modesty of the people. I think the best example of this attitude to understate things were the cars - take the BMW for example. In USA people take immense pride in the exact model of the car i.e. a 525 is different from an 535 etc, and make doubly sure that the model number is prominently present. However this seems to be a bit out of place in Germany and is rarely seen - it is uncommon to see a lot of 'bling' or personalization (think 20 inch rims etc.) on cars. This extends towards the very low-key 'patriotic spirit' that prevails in Germany. You would never find as much as a flag post with the national flag on doorsteps - that seems to be the exclusive realm of the government ministries. In fact I was given to understand, that the first time this sense of national pride was overtly expressed in over half a century was during the recently concluded football World Cup in 2006. I realize this is due to the events of World War II, an event where a sense of nationalistic pride resulted in sections of the population supporting a regime which sponsored a genocide. This sense of complicity has resulted in a general wariness for any such 'flag waving' - the passage of time has not completely erased the past.
Another facet of their persona is to be very upright and direct about most matters. Such a direct attitude can be however a bit unnerving at present, but over my time spent in Germany I have come to appreciate and respect this attitude. The fact that you would rather have a person tell you upfront if he/ she finds something amiss rather than being diplomatic is quite relieving - and avoids any sense of misunderstanding. This attitude is quite opposite to what you experience in USA, and could contribute to the image of the pedagogical German.
However if this would make you to think that Germans are only one type of people - think again. Remember - they are descendants of the Germanic tribes - not 'a' single tribe. The people from Bavaria are a culture apart from the folks of North-west Rhinephalia, the north, south, east and west - all have their distinct cultures and traditions. Add to this a large Turkish population (and accompanying culinary subculture) in and around Bonn and a sizable Japanese populace in Dusseldorf (offices of every second Japanese company I know) and then you have quite an interesting mix of people.
On a side note I did realize something about the German Turks. Looking in the past I come to realize that the huge influx of the Turks into Germany was part of the industrial rebuilding process after the war. Most of those who came were from the economically lower classes, migrating at an opportunity to have a better life. As with many ethnic minorities they preferred to live a bit isolated from the rest of the population, and live a similar existence just as they had done in their native Turkey. Over the past thirty-forty years both Turkey and German have become rapidly westernized, both in thought and mannerisms - and nowadays some of these people, many of whom came from conservative backgrounds (the intelligentsia were prosperous and content enough not to migrate) now feel a bit alienated in their country of residence. They are not able to associate and accept the present culture in Germany while at the same time feel out of place in a modern, urban suave Turkey - the country of their origin. I think this catch 22 situation of being in 'no-man's' land is present all over the world and will continue to increase as different countries coalesce into one big market place. Would people be able to retain and celebrate their diversity and traditions in such an environment - I guess that question any one's guess.
Speaking of the German's as a population, I also realized that one of the government's biggest headaches at present is their declining birth-rates which does not bode well for a system which is already straining a bit on its generous social benefits. This seems to be in line with an ever increasing age for marriage, although there is a growing trend for live-in relationships. Oddly enough, this did not translate directly into what people seemed to yearn for - many of whom I met were looking for some form of stability in their lives. I will admit, that this may stem from a different thought process that I am not able to easily relate to and takes some time to understand.
This seems quite a ramble about a people; but it all boils down to one thing - Germans are a very friendly people, they love to travel and many are quite wise about the happenings in the world. They may seem boring at first, but it certainly does not mean that they do not have things to talk about and share with you - as my good friend Stefan put it so well - 'the media has given this stern image, and well - we have to put on a facade and try our level best to live up to its expectations'!

Pottering about Bonn, Germany

If I could choose a lifestyle today, then perhaps it would be that of a aimless wanderer, trudging across cities and continents, never too long in one place. At every rest stop a cheerful greeting, a few acquaintances made and an appreciation of what each place - large or small, has to offer.
Although I may not be there yet, as fate may have it my current occupation does allow extended sojourns to different lands where you do get a chance to live among locals and experience 'normal' life at a level a tourist could never hope of achieving. This, and the blog-posts to follow come from Germany and a few of its neighbors where I spent a lovely summer.
Let me start with the place I called home - Bonn. A small city, no - a town whose claim to fame was that it was selected to be a stop-gap capital for one of Europe's biggest economies until the Berlin wall came crashing down. I still remember the time not too long ago when there were two Germany's - the GDR and the FRG with Bonn as it's capital. Now coming from one of the worlds most populous country, the definition of capital indicated a huge sprawling metropolis spread over a vast area, a sign of power and might. So when I finally made it from Köln to Bonn - it certainly seemed as if I was moving from the city to the countryside rather than vice-versa.

So essentially, that is what Bonn is, a quiet sleepy university town on the banks of the Rhine. Now that the seat of the government has returned to Berlin it seems content returning to its position of relative insignificance from which it was thrust into the limelight over half a century ago. Now, there is a reason why Bonn was chosen to be the capital rather than the other larger cities in Germany such as Munich, Hamburg or Frankfurt. In talking to the locals I got the idea that all Germans always considered Berlin to be the true capital and the division as a temporary albeit painful time in their country's history. If, during this hiatus - the capital was assigned to one of the major cities then there was the fear that it would be far more difficult for Berlin to regain its position when unification would take place. Bonn, on the other hand with its mainly academic population centered around a university seemed to fit the bill. Additionally, it was within an hours of driving distance from its western neighbors - an important consideration during the cold war.

Beethoven staring down at us

Present day Bonn is marketed as the birthplace of Beethoven and the town trumpets it hometown hero with a music festival each year in September. You can go for Beethoven walks - touring everything from the house where he was born, the church where he began his formative years with the organ to the place where his mother is buried. All this is concentrated in the Allstadt or 'old town' area with its quaint cobblestone walk-ways and wide plazas which to this date serve as a functional market place catering to the locals every evening. In terms of professional employment it seems that there are two major players - Deustche Post and Deutsche Telekom. These organizations are so big that Telekom has two railway stops to itself and runs a train known as the Telekom Express. The departure of the government is gradually being filled in by the United Nations, making this town of ~300,000 people a culturally diverse and a city with its arms open to welcome well qualified people to drive its urban renewal.
In terms of architectural wonders themselves I guess I will have to admit that there isnt anything spectacular to see - apart from the cathedral in the heart of the city, the Kurfuerstliches Schloss (which is now part of the university) and a couple of forts such as the Godesburg Fortress just outside Bonn. However, the governments past and present patronage (some as restitution since Bonn lost a large number of jobs due to the shift in government) has also resulted in a Museum mile - with museum after museum catering to different tastes. I did visit a few, however favorites remain the Arithmeum - which showcases computing milestones (mechanical computers to silicon chips) over the ages and the Haus der Geschichte der Bundesrepublik Deutschland (Museum of the History of the Federal Republic of Germany). Mind you, to visit the latter you would be better off knowing German - all the placards next to exhibit are not bilingual! One sad but interesting detail are the photographs highlighting the fire-bombing during WWII. Many of Germany's cities and historic sites were silent victims of these raids, so its not uncommon to note that many of the important cities do not have too many intact architectural monuments compared to their European neighbors. Additionally the people had to bear severe hardships after the war as they came to grips with the widespread devastation. Such is the cruel nature of war. Hats off to the resilience of the German people who have been able to rebuild their nation to an economic and political power within a few decades.
But if there isnt much to do within Bonn - there is certainly plenty to do around it!
Cologne (Köln to the locals) is just a 20 minute drive with its vibrant atmosphere capped by the world famous Dom and the crisp Kolsch. If you are seeking nightlife - you certainly do not need to look further. Cologne competes with Berlin for the party capital of Germany. It is the city of the Carnival in February and Köln Lichther (Köln lights) with public participation topping a million people!

Köln Lichter - with 800,000 other people and the Dom in the background

It is a city which never seems to sleep - and the party is on every night..... and yes - I do mean every-night. Do not intend to say that Bonn does not have its interesting spots with Haus Bar among my favorites for its live music on Thursday nights.... but Köln is certainly in a different league altogether.... Thanks to Bernd, Hilmar, Wolfgang and not to forget Mirjam for introducing me to the fun side of life!
If partying is not your cup of cake - you could consider hiking; then the Drachenfels or Rolandsborgen could be just up your alley. The former - yes, with a dragon as its namesake is often regarded as the highest mountain in Holland - given the number of Dutch coming to see an elevated place from the flat lands of the Netherlands. A clear day rewards you with views reaching Köln - with the Dom in the distance. It is also the home to a rich industrialists nutty castle - never quite finished.... serves to remind you what too much money without a clue on how to spend it can do to a person. Rolandsborgen sits on the opposite side of the river and is on the rampart of an old Roman fort overlooking a monastery on an island. An easy walk to the top brings you to a cafeteria where you can indulge in cake and coffee and soak in the sunshine.

Rolandsborgan with Bernd

And if physical work is not your thing, you can always indulge in a favorite German passion - driving. The land of BMW, Mercedes and Porsche offers you one of the best driving experiences anywhere. You are rarely limited by your car, but more by your own ability. And I do not only mean the autobahn which curve all across Germany but also the back-country roads which weave and wind their way through picturesque villages.

'pitstop during a drive :-)'

Such a drive is to be experienced in the Aa valley with a gentle undulating landscape dotted with vineyards and small towns which seem to be right out of a Hans-Christian Anderson fairytale. If you were the technically inclined, you could also find the radio telescope at Effelsburg here, a monstrosity over 100m in diameter or the radar station with its huge dome built to track the Eastern bloc threats during the cold war.

The Effelsburg telescope

And if that isnt enough the 'Nürburgring' track can quell all your need for speed. Have some moolah to burn - then try getting Sabine Schmitz to drive you around the legendary Nordschleife in the BMW M5 Taxi or use the Zakspeed viper....

'The viper' whipping around the 'Ring'

All in all, whats not to love about Bonn.... not too big to be lost, not too small to be bored. I lived here for three months, and it kind of grew on me a bit. I was sorry to leave it, and certainly hope to return in the not to distant future to see what more it has in store for me.