Seduced in the Stubai

It was a nice, clear, warm starry Thursday night; and if you were in Bonn that pretty much meant that you would be at the Haus Bar. As usual I joined my good friend Stephan and we headed out there for some good company, live music and drinks. Today we were celebrating Stephan's completion of his studies and were joined by a few colleagues; always a case of more the merrier. The conversation as always centered around plans for the weekend; in that respect I think humankind is universal - we all live for our weekends!

There was Stephan, a broad Berliner with a ever present twinkle in his eye; Wiebke, a lovely lass from Gummersbach; Yelena, the cheerful girl from Uzbekistan - if there was something common between us it would be a love for the outdoors and a pinch of what I can only call 'explorer's insanity'. One of my hidden agenda's for coming to Germany was to do some hiking in the Alps, but soon after reaching Bonn I realized that although the Alps were in Germany it seemed that I was on the wrong side of the country for that kind of activity! However, one can always hope and I had never given up the desire to head to the hills.
I had broached the subject to others before but given the distance and other commitments it seemed like a lost case. But when asked what I wanted to do, half heartedly it again came out as - let's head to the hills. The only difference was the answer - 'hmmmm, why not; how about the following weekend'!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Not sure if it was the effect of the alcohol on sane reasoning or a shared passion - but yes; we were sure as hell going to the Alps.
Logistically it was quite simple. Stephan very gamely offered to drive the 750km (one way), Wiebke with her experience of the Alps would plan the trip, and Yelena and myself would provide the company. To round off the quartet, Stephan's girlfriend Candy would fly in from Berlin to Munich and join us. AWESOME!
The location Wiebke had chosen was in the Tirol region in Austria, home to the Stubai Alps. The Alps rise on both sides of the narrow Stubai valley culminating in the Stubaier Gletscher making it a veritable trekker's and skiers' paradise. It sure was a long drive but we finally did make it crossing into Austria via Innsbruck and headed to our destination.
After a nice simple pizza dinner downed with Rädler at a small bed&breakfast in Ranalt - basically beer with lemonade (very very refreshing) we called it a night - tomorrow was going to be a long day and I think we could do with some good sleep. Before hitting the sack, it was the customary excited call to my folks back in India about the planned trip. My poor mum, bless her soul, has had to deal with these type of calls all her life - probably heading to the church the next day to pray either for safe deliverance from any trip or more likely for some divine input of sanity to her offspring :-).

The start (from L-R) me, Wiebke, Yelena, Stephan and Candy

Next day after a hearty frühstückte (breakfast) we were ready to hit the road (~08:30). A short drive weaving in and around the curves brought us to the trail head. Spirits were as high as the sun , and amidst a background of the snow capped peaks we set off, picking our way through the trail cutting through the coniferous tree line. The incline was a steady one, albeit not steep and I took time to snap a few photographs as we ascended, both of our group and also of the ever changing scenery. I am not too sure as to why people climb, if you asked me there would be no clear straight shot answer. All I know is that somewhere deep down within me I realize a sense of contentment which no other activity can provide. I cannot and do not try to rationalize with this feeling, but its just like an addiction which I cannot go without for an extended period of time.

We had just cleared the tree-line at this point a made a short stop

Finally after around an hour and half we finally ascended beyond the tree-line and took a short break to take a quick snack and take in the views from a hilly outcropping which overlooked the valley. We now walked alongside an alpine rivulet which gushed and gurgled as it flowed down the hills to the valley. But this sound was dwarfed by a distant roar of a waterfall which emerged into view as we trudged into a valley hidden by the hills. The only company seemed to be fellow hikers...... and a bull which took a special liking to Stephan.

Stephan and 'friend'.... note the waterfall and the hill in the background - thats where we were headed

From this point in the valley our first destination was visible just to the right of the huge waterfall - Sulzenauhütte at 2196m. Well, given that we were at ~1850m it didn't seem like a huge total distance.... but then again 300m of vertical ascent rarely translates to a similar horizontal distance; and we diligently set about the circuitous route.
This would serve as a nice backdrop of the abilities and personalities of our team. In the lead was Yelena, lithe and sure-footed as a mountain goat, with a demeanor and disposition of a fun loving Russian. Alternating in the lead was Wiebke, who seemed to excel in such environs, her vivaciousness adding to her charm. Then came the rest of us led by Stephan, a very cool, composed German with a chilled out attitude followed by Candy. Candy was the very woman's woman - the type you see on the business woman's magazine, the elegant types who would be comfortable in a boardroom; add to that a very friendly disposition and you have a good idea of the type of person I am talking about. And finally there was me, what I lacked in ability I made up in enthusiasm and rounded up the group. So here we were - five quite different people brought together by a love for the outdoors.

Sulzenau hutte - our lunch halt

We managed to reach our first halt at around 12:30, the hütte perched on a pass with spectacular views of the Alps on both sides. It was also our pit-stop for lunch. And since we were in Austria, and I was starving it made for the perfect setting to experiment. On Wiebke's advice, I chose Knödel, essentially dumplings of ham and cheese in warm soup. Add a glass of beer to that on a warm afternoon - its a perfect recipe for a follow-on siesta. But we had ways to go, so slung on the backpacks and resumed.

If there would be one picture that illustrated our state of mind - this would be close to it

Now the landscape had now changed reflecting the rugged fauna which dominated the region. We were now walking in the shadow of Wilder Freiger (3418m) which was one of the dominant peaks in the region. What was very evident was the decline in the glaciated region over time. Fifty years ago, where we stood would be permanently snowbound, but now the glacier had receded to near the peaks themselves. The starkness of the landscape had a strange sense of beauty to it, and I couldn't help but occasionally stop and look back to take in the scene.

Alpine scrubland

We did take occasional stops, by a clear river to stretch our legs and another time by a perfectly still glacial lake formed from the glacier runoff. It was a clear warm day, the views were from a picture book and I was amidst friends - not sure if I would have even have wanted it any better.

what better backdrop than an Alpine glacial lake!

It was finally up to a 250m scramble up over a vantage point to begin our climb down to our night-stop. This would also be the highest point on our hike, after this it would be all the way down. We had an option, either take the winding path or just try a 40-50 degree incline over loose rock. Wiebke with her wisdom chose the former, the rest of us either with a false sense of bravado, or a naive underestimation of what that meant opted for the former. On hindsight, it was a stupid thing to do cause when you have a unwieldy backpack you are not the fastest or the most lithe creature around.

piece of cake - hold the cable and scramble!

But in the end we all made it using the fixed cable, and some pluck to clamber up and hoist ourselves next to a cross erected by travelers across this path in memoriam of some hapless folks who slipped and fell to their death. In a way the cross was a silent reminder - that Someone was possibly watching over us......

Alpha point - from now on it would be all the way down

Now clutching the cable we started making our way down. The cable was essential in places, and I wondered about the difficulty in making such a passage in bad weather - it sure would have been tricky given the exposed nature of the descent. In addition, I think I had twisted my knee a bit and began to fall back a bit, taking slow and deliberate steps to ease off on the injured limb. Stephan was kind enough to stop now and again to check on me to guide me through the more difficult sections. On occasion the pain was sharp and shooting, during the rest it resembled more of a dull numbing sort of pain. However, what could I do except focus on reaching the next stop! It is in these circumstances that I thank my stars for a passion to undertake this sport - cause the thrill and adrenaline rush to just be out there compensates for all the pain that one may have to endure.... sounds crazy - and I guess that's exactly what it is.

Nürnbergerhütte in the distance - our night halt

However it was a relief to reach our halt for the night Nürnbergerhütte (2280 m). This 92 year old place of refuge commands a superb panoramic view of the Stubai alps from its 'sun terrace' and offers basic food and lodging - exactly what a weary traveler would need. After checking in to our 16 bunk bed dorm room we savored our day's experience over a bottle of wine. It would be a quick dinner before we would head to bed. A sound sleep felt good, except that I felt so grimy I decided that the ideal way to do it would be to feel scrubbed and clean and decided to have a shower - a stupid idea. Consider the fact - the water had not been heated, and essentially was coming right from a glacier so it would be very possible that it was close to freezing. Needless to say it was the quickest bath of my life, accompanied with rigorous scrubbing or rattling of my own skeleton as my body was shocked as the icy water hit me. All I remember were three German's staring incredulously at me when I made my exit, and Wiebke's laughter ringing through the room as I dived into cover of my sleeping bag. Just to rub it in, heated water was available the next day with Stephan having the pleasure of a nice warm shower. Well - it certainly was an experience!

next morning - the hill in the background is what we had crossed the previous day

Next day after breakfast we began our descent into the valley below, wading our way through small herds of goat whose bleating echoed through the hills. Walking alongside a gushing stream on the way back to our car I reminisced on the trip; the beautiful vistas that I had seen, the camaraderie that we had shared and the simple, unspoilt joys that we had all experienced. The crisp mountain air, the crystal clear icy water from the glacier, the whistling of the bush as the wind whipped around .... for a time I had been in enchanted lands, truly seduced ... by the Stubaital.

After a hard days work what better way to relax then with some beer and good company

Who - or what is a German.....

'Different faces of a German'

This image may conjure up different pictures for different people. Some drawn from the incidents this past century, most I dare say admit comes from the media. What I experienced during my time there was quite different, contrary to my initial expectations.
As a colleague once succinctly put it - the typical German is like a coconut, cold and unfriendly on the outside but when you get to know him better you would always be welcome in his midst This is true in many instances. So although they may be a bit more formal that their southern neighbors but in no small way are they a boring people. German's love.... and I mean LOVE to have a good time. Think Ocktoberfest when you think about German attitude, and you wouldn't be too far from the truth. During my time there seemed to be festive events every other week - and at each event the whole place was packed; and it wasn't just the younger generation, but everyone from the young to the old seemed to want to come out and enjoy the festivities.
Given that fact - the average German is not a spendthrift but is quite cautious on where and on what he spends his money. When a house is built it is built out of solid brick and built to last a century. Although this results in prices which would break a wallet - the German considers everything in light of the time-period for which he will own his asset, and the joy it brings him. Therefore its is quite common for people to rent apartment's all their life until they have decided to live in a particular place - and then go in to buy a house. A direct result of this is a savings rate of close to 11% - quite a few percentage points higher than the US. This I suspect has some origins in the hardship the people have experienced over the last century which urges caution over reckless spending.
A personal attribute which I often came across was the relative modesty of the people. I think the best example of this attitude to understate things were the cars - take the BMW for example. In USA people take immense pride in the exact model of the car i.e. a 525 is different from an 535 etc, and make doubly sure that the model number is prominently present. However this seems to be a bit out of place in Germany and is rarely seen - it is uncommon to see a lot of 'bling' or personalization (think 20 inch rims etc.) on cars. This extends towards the very low-key 'patriotic spirit' that prevails in Germany. You would never find as much as a flag post with the national flag on doorsteps - that seems to be the exclusive realm of the government ministries. In fact I was given to understand, that the first time this sense of national pride was overtly expressed in over half a century was during the recently concluded football World Cup in 2006. I realize this is due to the events of World War II, an event where a sense of nationalistic pride resulted in sections of the population supporting a regime which sponsored a genocide. This sense of complicity has resulted in a general wariness for any such 'flag waving' - the passage of time has not completely erased the past.
Another facet of their persona is to be very upright and direct about most matters. Such a direct attitude can be however a bit unnerving at present, but over my time spent in Germany I have come to appreciate and respect this attitude. The fact that you would rather have a person tell you upfront if he/ she finds something amiss rather than being diplomatic is quite relieving - and avoids any sense of misunderstanding. This attitude is quite opposite to what you experience in USA, and could contribute to the image of the pedagogical German.
However if this would make you to think that Germans are only one type of people - think again. Remember - they are descendants of the Germanic tribes - not 'a' single tribe. The people from Bavaria are a culture apart from the folks of North-west Rhinephalia, the north, south, east and west - all have their distinct cultures and traditions. Add to this a large Turkish population (and accompanying culinary subculture) in and around Bonn and a sizable Japanese populace in Dusseldorf (offices of every second Japanese company I know) and then you have quite an interesting mix of people.
On a side note I did realize something about the German Turks. Looking in the past I come to realize that the huge influx of the Turks into Germany was part of the industrial rebuilding process after the war. Most of those who came were from the economically lower classes, migrating at an opportunity to have a better life. As with many ethnic minorities they preferred to live a bit isolated from the rest of the population, and live a similar existence just as they had done in their native Turkey. Over the past thirty-forty years both Turkey and German have become rapidly westernized, both in thought and mannerisms - and nowadays some of these people, many of whom came from conservative backgrounds (the intelligentsia were prosperous and content enough not to migrate) now feel a bit alienated in their country of residence. They are not able to associate and accept the present culture in Germany while at the same time feel out of place in a modern, urban suave Turkey - the country of their origin. I think this catch 22 situation of being in 'no-man's' land is present all over the world and will continue to increase as different countries coalesce into one big market place. Would people be able to retain and celebrate their diversity and traditions in such an environment - I guess that question any one's guess.
Speaking of the German's as a population, I also realized that one of the government's biggest headaches at present is their declining birth-rates which does not bode well for a system which is already straining a bit on its generous social benefits. This seems to be in line with an ever increasing age for marriage, although there is a growing trend for live-in relationships. Oddly enough, this did not translate directly into what people seemed to yearn for - many of whom I met were looking for some form of stability in their lives. I will admit, that this may stem from a different thought process that I am not able to easily relate to and takes some time to understand.
This seems quite a ramble about a people; but it all boils down to one thing - Germans are a very friendly people, they love to travel and many are quite wise about the happenings in the world. They may seem boring at first, but it certainly does not mean that they do not have things to talk about and share with you - as my good friend Stefan put it so well - 'the media has given this stern image, and well - we have to put on a facade and try our level best to live up to its expectations'!

Pottering about Bonn, Germany

If I could choose a lifestyle today, then perhaps it would be that of a aimless wanderer, trudging across cities and continents, never too long in one place. At every rest stop a cheerful greeting, a few acquaintances made and an appreciation of what each place - large or small, has to offer.
Although I may not be there yet, as fate may have it my current occupation does allow extended sojourns to different lands where you do get a chance to live among locals and experience 'normal' life at a level a tourist could never hope of achieving. This, and the blog-posts to follow come from Germany and a few of its neighbors where I spent a lovely summer.
Let me start with the place I called home - Bonn. A small city, no - a town whose claim to fame was that it was selected to be a stop-gap capital for one of Europe's biggest economies until the Berlin wall came crashing down. I still remember the time not too long ago when there were two Germany's - the GDR and the FRG with Bonn as it's capital. Now coming from one of the worlds most populous country, the definition of capital indicated a huge sprawling metropolis spread over a vast area, a sign of power and might. So when I finally made it from Köln to Bonn - it certainly seemed as if I was moving from the city to the countryside rather than vice-versa.

So essentially, that is what Bonn is, a quiet sleepy university town on the banks of the Rhine. Now that the seat of the government has returned to Berlin it seems content returning to its position of relative insignificance from which it was thrust into the limelight over half a century ago. Now, there is a reason why Bonn was chosen to be the capital rather than the other larger cities in Germany such as Munich, Hamburg or Frankfurt. In talking to the locals I got the idea that all Germans always considered Berlin to be the true capital and the division as a temporary albeit painful time in their country's history. If, during this hiatus - the capital was assigned to one of the major cities then there was the fear that it would be far more difficult for Berlin to regain its position when unification would take place. Bonn, on the other hand with its mainly academic population centered around a university seemed to fit the bill. Additionally, it was within an hours of driving distance from its western neighbors - an important consideration during the cold war.

Beethoven staring down at us

Present day Bonn is marketed as the birthplace of Beethoven and the town trumpets it hometown hero with a music festival each year in September. You can go for Beethoven walks - touring everything from the house where he was born, the church where he began his formative years with the organ to the place where his mother is buried. All this is concentrated in the Allstadt or 'old town' area with its quaint cobblestone walk-ways and wide plazas which to this date serve as a functional market place catering to the locals every evening. In terms of professional employment it seems that there are two major players - Deustche Post and Deutsche Telekom. These organizations are so big that Telekom has two railway stops to itself and runs a train known as the Telekom Express. The departure of the government is gradually being filled in by the United Nations, making this town of ~300,000 people a culturally diverse and a city with its arms open to welcome well qualified people to drive its urban renewal.
In terms of architectural wonders themselves I guess I will have to admit that there isnt anything spectacular to see - apart from the cathedral in the heart of the city, the Kurfuerstliches Schloss (which is now part of the university) and a couple of forts such as the Godesburg Fortress just outside Bonn. However, the governments past and present patronage (some as restitution since Bonn lost a large number of jobs due to the shift in government) has also resulted in a Museum mile - with museum after museum catering to different tastes. I did visit a few, however favorites remain the Arithmeum - which showcases computing milestones (mechanical computers to silicon chips) over the ages and the Haus der Geschichte der Bundesrepublik Deutschland (Museum of the History of the Federal Republic of Germany). Mind you, to visit the latter you would be better off knowing German - all the placards next to exhibit are not bilingual! One sad but interesting detail are the photographs highlighting the fire-bombing during WWII. Many of Germany's cities and historic sites were silent victims of these raids, so its not uncommon to note that many of the important cities do not have too many intact architectural monuments compared to their European neighbors. Additionally the people had to bear severe hardships after the war as they came to grips with the widespread devastation. Such is the cruel nature of war. Hats off to the resilience of the German people who have been able to rebuild their nation to an economic and political power within a few decades.
But if there isnt much to do within Bonn - there is certainly plenty to do around it!
Cologne (Köln to the locals) is just a 20 minute drive with its vibrant atmosphere capped by the world famous Dom and the crisp Kolsch. If you are seeking nightlife - you certainly do not need to look further. Cologne competes with Berlin for the party capital of Germany. It is the city of the Carnival in February and Köln Lichther (Köln lights) with public participation topping a million people!

Köln Lichter - with 800,000 other people and the Dom in the background

It is a city which never seems to sleep - and the party is on every night..... and yes - I do mean every-night. Do not intend to say that Bonn does not have its interesting spots with Haus Bar among my favorites for its live music on Thursday nights.... but Köln is certainly in a different league altogether.... Thanks to Bernd, Hilmar, Wolfgang and not to forget Mirjam for introducing me to the fun side of life!
If partying is not your cup of cake - you could consider hiking; then the Drachenfels or Rolandsborgen could be just up your alley. The former - yes, with a dragon as its namesake is often regarded as the highest mountain in Holland - given the number of Dutch coming to see an elevated place from the flat lands of the Netherlands. A clear day rewards you with views reaching Köln - with the Dom in the distance. It is also the home to a rich industrialists nutty castle - never quite finished.... serves to remind you what too much money without a clue on how to spend it can do to a person. Rolandsborgen sits on the opposite side of the river and is on the rampart of an old Roman fort overlooking a monastery on an island. An easy walk to the top brings you to a cafeteria where you can indulge in cake and coffee and soak in the sunshine.

Rolandsborgan with Bernd

And if physical work is not your thing, you can always indulge in a favorite German passion - driving. The land of BMW, Mercedes and Porsche offers you one of the best driving experiences anywhere. You are rarely limited by your car, but more by your own ability. And I do not only mean the autobahn which curve all across Germany but also the back-country roads which weave and wind their way through picturesque villages.

'pitstop during a drive :-)'

Such a drive is to be experienced in the Aa valley with a gentle undulating landscape dotted with vineyards and small towns which seem to be right out of a Hans-Christian Anderson fairytale. If you were the technically inclined, you could also find the radio telescope at Effelsburg here, a monstrosity over 100m in diameter or the radar station with its huge dome built to track the Eastern bloc threats during the cold war.

The Effelsburg telescope

And if that isnt enough the 'Nürburgring' track can quell all your need for speed. Have some moolah to burn - then try getting Sabine Schmitz to drive you around the legendary Nordschleife in the BMW M5 Taxi or use the Zakspeed viper....

'The viper' whipping around the 'Ring'

All in all, whats not to love about Bonn.... not too big to be lost, not too small to be bored. I lived here for three months, and it kind of grew on me a bit. I was sorry to leave it, and certainly hope to return in the not to distant future to see what more it has in store for me.

A cry of anguish....

'I have lost my baby - the doctor said that she couldn't detect any heartbeat.. and I do not know what to do'...... for a moment all speech escaped me, and an eerie silence seemed to encompass my room. At the other end of the line was my one and only sister who for seven long months had been proudly bearing a child in her womb. All the dreams and hopes fostered by two families seemed to have come crashing down in one single instant.
Something deep within me yearned to reach out and hold my sister tight, to try and find some glimmer of hope which would wash away her sorrow but at that instance - there was nothing, absolutely nothing. I felt cheated, robbed of happiness which till that moment had seemed like a continuum in my life. I had never felt like this before, never-ever in my existence till then. I had always viewed death as an eventuality for everyone, but then why, oh why did life have to be snatched away before it even saw the light of the world.
I wondered, if the pain and sorrow of losing someone whom I had never seen, touched or heard would feel so heart-wrenching then what would be the state of the babe's poor parents. They may have been so eagerly looking forward to seeing their newborn emerge into the world in a few months, enveloping them and filling their lives with joy and happiness. All these days of longing and preparation- it seemed cruel that it should be snatched away in such fashion.
I guess it is in such trying times that faith must come to the rescue - for when everything seems to crumble around us we try and seek solace in the hope that someone bigger than us is watching over us. We may never have seen Him, we may never have known Him but possibly he too shares and understands our state of despondency. Maybe He has something better or greater in store for us; maybe it is a gentle reminder of the transient nature of our lives, and how we eke out our existence. I may never know, but when all hope seems to fail, faith must prevail to guide us through.
All I know is that one little, well-formed seven month old baby boy was perhaps so loved by God that perhaps he decided to keep him for a little while longer. And although we too would have longed to have him in our midst, this must wait awhile. I may never have known you little one, but this thing is for sure - you were much loved by all of us, and your parting has brought us all a little closer together. It made us realize how valuable life is, and how hard it feels to let go. For this, I thank you and will always remember you.

The uncle you never got to meet - Joseph